Bhoga Nandeeshwara Temple – A Shiva Shrine near Bengaluru
A leading software company had invited me to conduct a 2-day architectural photography workshop in Bengaluru. Upon reaching Bengaluru airport, they took me to a resort around the foothills of Nandi Hills. The plan was to do an on-location photography exercise on Day-2 of the workshop. The organisers mentioned we would do that at Bhoga Nandeeshwara Temple that was close by. As planned, we reached the temple complex around mid-morning. Once inside, the stunning stone-carved small shrines along the periphery, the main verandah surrounding the sanctum sanctorum, and the shikharas (tiered towers) took our collective breath away.
One of the oldest surviving temples in Karnataka, the Bhoga Nandeeshwara Temple, is just 55 km from the Bengaluru city centre. One word of caution though – from the city centre, you will take a similar time to reach Bhoga Nandeeshwara Temple as it takes from Bangalore to Hyderabad by flight. Don’t let that deter you, as a visit here is a treat for the senses. Tranquil environs, ancient heritage, exquisite stone carvings, and more, make up for this drive. And, since the temple is on the foothills of Nandi Hills, you could club your visit with a picnic or a staycation there.
A Bit of History
Inscriptions here show the original Shiva temple dates back to the early 9th century. Nolambadiraja and Govinda III inscriptions are from 806 CE and copper plates of the Bana rulers Jayateja and Dattiya are from ~810 CE. Later, the temple enjoyed the patronage of the Ganga Dynasty, Cholas, Hoysalas, and the Vijayanagara Empire. After that, local chiefs and Mysore Kingdom rulers controlled it until it came under British rule when Tipu Sultan died.
Today, the temple has two large and many small shrines. Of the large shrines, the Gangas of Talakad built the Arunachaleswara shrine in the south. The Chola Dynasty built the Bhoga Nandeeshwara shrine in the north. In fact, the Bhoga Nandeeshwara shrine has a sculpture of a king that is believed to be Rajendra Chola.
The verandah around the sanctum sanctorum 
Impressive bas reliefs carved on the black stone pillars
Temple Layout and Architecture
Between the two large shrines, there is a smaller Uma-Maheshwara shrine with a Kalyana Mandapam (marriage altar). Many ornate black stone pillars support this shrine. These pillars display bas reliefs of the Hindu gods Shiva and Parvati, Brahma and Saraswati, Vishnu and Lakshmi, Agni and Swaha, and plants and birds. While the architectural style is Dravidian, these reliefs are typical of Hoysalas.
Stone-carved idols of gods 
Ceremonial Ratha (chariot) parked outside the temple 
Bas reliefs along the peripheral wall of the temple
Going past the temple compound, you will see a massive water tank (Kalyani) with steps all around. As you go around the tank, you will notice the beauty of the wall that surrounds the temple complex. Gopurams (tiered pyramidal structures) with ornate stone carvings decorate the entire wall. Legend is this tank called Sringeri (Shringi) Teertha is the source of the Pinakini River. Three times a year, on the major festivals, a hundred thousand diyas (earthen lamps) are lit on the steps of this tank.
The stunning architecture and an organised layout of the temple leave you wondering about the structural advancements of the times when today’s construction techniques were unheard of. During your next visit to Bengaluru, take a day out and visit this ~1000-year-old oasis of ancient craft and tranquillity.
