Hunt for Heritage in Goa – Part 2
Ready to head south? Remember, you are at Calangute beach, and we are to check out the less-explored heritage sites south of Calangute in Goa? While forts dominate this itinerary, it includes a quaint locality of Panjim that came about when a rich resident donated his coconut plantation for locals to live as the spread of Bubonic plague devastated the villages. So, let’s get rolling with little ado!
The Forts on the Mandovi
Close to the Sinquerim beach is Fort Aguada. In fact, it is less than 10 km from our home base! This fort gets its name from the Portuguese word Aguada meaning ‘watery’, thanks to a freshwater spring inside this fort. This was used to replenish water in the ships that docked.
Upper Fort Aguada with its reservoir and lighthouse 
Fort Aguada’s rampart sweeps into the Arabian Sea
Given its hilltop and sea level presence, they call the elevated part of the fort Upper Fort Aguada. Two interesting features here are the lighthouse, and the almost square reservoir covering the freshwater spring. One of the better-maintained forts, it sits on a hill but has ramparts stretching into the sea. Along the banks of River Mandovi, where it meets the sea, is a prison that is a part of the Fort Aguada complex. Today, the Goa government is converting it into a museum.
Just 10 km from Fort Aguada is Reis Magos Fort. It is on the northern bank of River Mandovi, across the river from Panjim. This mid-16th century fort was one of the largest fortifications in Goa, defending the narrowest point at the mouth of the river estuary.
Reis Magos Fort played host to many a dignitary during the Portuguese era 
Armoury to your right, as you enter Reis Magos
The quarters within Reis Magos hosted the Portuguese dignitaries who either just came to Goa or were en route to Lisbon. Since Reis Magos Fort played host to the viceroys and other dignitaries from Portugal, it was well-defended with 33 guns! As a rare honour accorded to a Goan artist who passed away in 2011, this fort has an art gallery of Mario Miranda’s works. Like most forts, even Reis Magos has an armoury and a prison.
Portuguese style housing in Panjim
Across the river Mandovi, less than a kilometre from its southern bank in Panjim, is Fontainhas. While the rich lived on the Altinho or Panjim Hill, the less affluent lived here. The settlement came about in the 18th and 19th centuries. There were springs to the west of Fontainhas, and the name comes from them (Fontainhas in Portuguese means ‘little fountain’).
Winding, narrow streets, made picturesque by old villas with projecting balconies painted in vivid solids and pastels defines Fontainhas. In the Portuguese era, the residents here had to paint the houses every year after monsoons. This tradition continues giving the area a vivid Portuguese palette! The locality houses the chapel of St Sebastian within and the Immaculate Conception Church on its periphery!
The place offers delectable fare for all budgets. Grab your lunch here. We have to go a long way ahead!
The Forts Down South
Now that you are well-fed, get set for a 50+ km drive to Betul Fort. Your mind may conjure up images of gigantic walls, armouries, prisons, and ramparts projecting into the sea, but don’t get misled by it. What remains today is just a stump of a rampart that oversees the mouth of River Sal. It houses a tiny cannon and provides a view of the estuary and a lighthouse on the riverside. Besides its historic significance, the scenic place is worth visiting just for its stunning view!
Not far away lies Cabo de Rama Fort. The name of this fort – Cabo de Rama – comes from Lord Rama and Sita having spent some time here during their 14-year exile. Defended by 21 guns, the Portuguese took the fort from its Hindu rulers for a very simple reason. The large cape fascinated them for its stunning landscape and a fascinating view of the Arabian Sea.
Within the fort, while you’d spot the Church of St Anthony, the view from the lookouts along the fort wall is rugged, yet splendid! This South Goa fort acted as a prison during the Portuguese rule, before they abandoned it.
The trip above will accord you a close brush with the Portuguese history of Goa and will consume the entire day. Savour it and prepare yourself for a different stroke from Goa next week!
