From Khajuraho, the Temple Town, let me take you to the rocks of Jabalpur.
Jabalpur Rocks
No. I am not punning. This post is about rocks in Jabalpur. Rock structures, both natural and man-made. Sporting a rocky terrain by the banks of River Narmada, the attractions around Jabalpur have an obvious linkage with rocks. Most famous amongst those are the Marble Rocks. White, blue, grey, and pink marble cliffs gaze down on the gentler Narmada after it has dissipated some of its visible anger at the gigantic Dhuandhar falls a few hundred metres before these ravines.
Dhuandhar Falls and Marble Rocks
Two Hindi words, Dhuan (smoke) and Dhar (flow) describe this 10-metre high plunge fall well. The water descends with a roar and hits the rocks beneath to create a mist, giving the falls its name. While tourists throng the place, it is a favourite of the locals too. With plenty of space around to enjoy nature, local families or groups of friends come to Dhuandhar to spend a chilled out half day. A cable car facilitates your trip across to the other side.
For visitors, the spot calls for a longer outing. Besides admiring the falls, they must plan for a quick drive to nearby Bhedaghat. Here, they can take a relaxed 60-90 minute boat ride enjoying the stunning vista of gleaming marble rocks along the banks.
If you are lucky, your boatman will enthrall you with colourful descriptions of the rock faces along the route. He will show you India’s own version of Mount Rushmore, and tell you that nature crafted this mount, unlike Rushmore. He’ll share the story of what prompted the name ‘Bandar Koodni’ (Monkey’s Leap). The cliffs alongside this deep gorge were closer together before they got eroded by the Narmada, and a monkey had leapt across the gorge. The boatman may also quiz you which way the Narmada will turn as the boat approaches Bhool Bhulaiya (a maze).
On a moonlit night, the marble cliffs shine like silver. I assure you a boat ride around the marble rocks is an affair to remember.
Chausath Yogini Temple
The last remaining remnant of the 6th-century Golki Math University, Chausath Yogini Temple lies close to Bhedaghat. People far and wide knew the university for its studies on Mathematics, Astrology, and Tantric Yogini Cult.
Yogini represents the energies of Mahashakti (Feminine Super Power) and the number 64 or 81 is significant as it represents Ashta Matrikas (Eight Divine Mothers) or Nava Durga (Nine Manifestations of Goddess Durga). And they always show these yoginis independent of male consorts. Even here, they appear solo.
The original temple is from the 8th century. The present structure dates back to the 10th century during the reign of the Kalchuri Dynasty. And this temple has 81 manifestations, carved out of stone, arranged in a semi-circular periphery of the temple. Over the centuries, many have got damaged, but the ones that remain reflect superb craftsmanship of the times.
Madan Mahal (Palace) and the Balancing Rock
East of Bhedaghat, a little more than a stone’s throw away (18 kilometres to be precise) lies Madan Mahal. Mahal is a misnomer for this modest, yet awe-inspiring, military outpost created over a millennium ago. It can qualify as a fort and it lies on a hilltop.
Besides the ancillary structures dotting the fort, a meeting chamber, and a private room for relaxation of the ruler crown a massive boulder. It has a strong association with a Gond tribal queen who ruled the region in the 16th century.
Surviving the elements and nature’s fury over the centuries, this tiny rock-hewn fortress makes one marvel at the engineering and architectural prowess of that era.
Close to the fort, in a small enclosure, you’ll find another rock – the Balancing Rock. One of nature’s marvel, this gigantic rock lies pivoted on top of another. The point of contact between the two is tiny, yet this Balancing Rock has survived gales, storms, and even earthquakes, and has stayed in its place.
Include these rocks in your Jabalpur itinerary the next time you visit the city and you’ll come back gaping in awe.
Next week, another hidden gem from the heart of India – Madhya Pradesh.
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