Mubarak Mandi – A Shining Imprint of Dogra Dynasty – Jammu-2
As an early 18-century gift to the city, Raja Dhruv Dev laid Mubarak Mandi’s foundation. He spotted an ideal site to move his residence from Purani Mandi to this high plateau. While he started its construction, many later rulers contributed to the final shape of this site. Small wonder the architectural styles here range from Dogra-Pahari, Mughal, English Baroque, Rajasthani, and more.
With a courtyard in the centre, Raja Dhruv Dev built four edifices around it – named after his four sons. These made up not just the residences, but also the offices of the royal representatives. Let’s look at what exists!
List of the Structures in the Complex (clockwise from North)
- Raja Ram Singh’s Palace, and the Sessions Court;
- Royal Court;
- Rani Guleri’s Palace and the Funds Office;
- Queens’ Palace of Raja Amar Singh (Today, occupied by Central Reserve Police Force);
- Rani Bandrali’s Palace, Sheesh Mahal (Palace of Mirrors), and Toshakhana (Royal Treasury);
- Rani Charak’s Palace;
- New Palace, or Rani Kathar’s Palace;
- Golghar (Round House) complex;
- Durbar Hall (Grey Hall);
- Army HQ/Foreign Office/High Court;
- Old Magistrate’s Complex;
- Raja Amar Singh’s Palace (Divisional Commissioner’s Office);
- Gadadhar Temple; and
- Reserve Treasury Building (New Treasury).
As you can see, it is an elaborate complex with lots happening. Most of these structures are in an advanced state of disrepair. But the heartening part is the authorities are taking pains to renovate this glorious royal settlement. Let’s take a walk around the complex and check out some of these stunning heritage monuments.
The Central Courtyard
There were two gates to enter the royal cluster, of which only one exists today. Inside, you find yourself in a central courtyard. This, at the peak of the Dogra era, had a royal platform made of marble. The king held his public court here (Diwan-e-Aam). Maharaja Gulab Singh (1820-1857 CE) had it built, but none of it survives today. What you see now is a park.
The Majestic South Block
Two halls in the south dominate Mubarak Mandi – the Durbar Hall, and the Army Headquarters. Carved stone columns, shaded cupolas, and arcades embellish the frontage of the Army Headquarters. Its corridors and verandahs served the purpose of the waiting area for the visitors. Pebble work in its exterior from the late Mughal period adds some flair to the building.
Stylised pillars with floral carvings adorn the inner periphery of the Durbar Hall, also called the Grey Hall. Besides hosting the official functions and king’s cabinet meetings, this hall also doubled up as a ballroom.
Golghar (Round House)
On the banks of River Tawi, Golghar bears Roman architectural influence. Archways dominate this four-storeyed building. But the domes reflect Islamic influence. The ruins of Golghar are so fragile, there is an entry restriction in this wing. A fire in 1984 and an earthquake in 2005 destroyed most of it, but its beauty is clear in what remains.
The Zenana (Ladies Quarters and the Queen’s Palaces)
The most spectacular workmanship is on display in this section of the complex. Besides the palaces of the queens, the king’s treasury and the Sheesh Mahal (Palace of Mirrors) also form a part of this section. If you enter through Nikki Deodhi (Small Gateway), there is a temple-cum-shrine dedicated to Baba Raghu in the smaller courtyard within.
The false ceilings here are a piece of art. Get ready to be charmed by the superlative decor of the ceiling in Papier mâché. Likewise, the wall murals in Sheesh Mahal are no less attractive.
Bright colours on the Papier Mache work 
Another wall mural in Sheesh Mahal 
Wall mural with mirrors in Sheesh Mahal 
Papier Mache ceiling of Toshakhana 
Craftsmanship in Papier Mach in Mubarak Mandi 
Papier Mache false ceiling in the Zenana section
Rani Charak’s Palace in the complex betrays her Rajasthani background. Built in Rajasthani Haveli style, its balconies and windows are ornate. The facade has mosaic work, and they informed me it has a working lift inside!
Rani Kathar’s Palace (Naya Mahal or New Palace) displays intricate terracotta latticework. Art deco windows cover its semicircular section and these make the facade look awesome.
So much heritage huddled up in such a small area in this prehistoric city was a delightful surprise. Now, for me, Jammu is not just a pit stop for the Vaishno Devi shrine pilgrimage, but a heritage wonder in its own right. During your next visit or passage through the city, keep a couple of days for witnessing the mesmerising heritage straddling many centuries!
