Our Planet’s Landmarks Series #16
Pangong Tso Ladakh India
We were to stay overnight at Pangong Tso (Ladakh, India). The normal 5-hour journey from Leh was longer for us. Reason? This trip was a part of a 7n/8d fashion & nature photography workshop we conducted. We made many stops along the way. Shooting models and marmots and more. Including one stop when we got our first glimpse of Pangong Tso (Tso = Lake).
This was a few years ago. The road was treacherous. But kind in parts. It passed through the third highest mountain pass in the world – Chang La (Chang Pass). Through the drive, the scenic beauty was spectacular. And the BRO (Border Roads Organisation) signages witty. ‘Be gentle on my curves’, ‘Don’t be a Gama in the land of Lama’, to quote a few.
At Pangong Tso
Our vehicles drew up outside our campsite. Pangong Tso’s million hues of blue were both hypnotic and magnetic. Like a bunch of excited kids, we spilled out. Instead of heading towards the tents, we drifted towards the edge of the lake.
We gaped wide-eyed at nature’s beauty. Lolling on the waves, the seagulls looked at us. No one moved. We, because we were
‘It is the world’s highest salt water lake,’ said our guide. By then, he had caught up with us. His eyes betrayed a knowing look. He had seen countless groups show a similar behaviour. Of heading out to the lake, and not to the tents.
Over the next few minutes, he filled us in about Pangong Tso.
About Pangong Tso
Pangong Tso is 134 km in
No fish or other living organisms inhabit on the Indian side (the western side of the lake). Except for some tiny crustaceans. The eastern side of the lake (Tibet-side) has fresh water, and plenty of fish.
Despite salinity, it acts as an important breeding ground for many migratory birds. Bar-headed geese, Brahmini ducks, and, of course, the seagulls!
Later in the day, during our fashion shoot, we wanted the gulls to glide around. To lend life and dynamism to our shots. Tough luck. The gulls were unwilling. Also, they kept their distance. Till a guide came up with a suggestion. ‘Throw sandwiches’, he said. We did.
Lo and behold! The buggers flew all around us for food. Did I say they were a lazy bunch? But, the food got them going!
Our Stay by the Lake
After much action, we finally made our way back to the campsite. The famed Pangong Tso sunset was spotted, shot, and canned. As a perfect backdrop for the drop-dead gorgeous models.
It was cold already. We realised how much the absence of the sun affected the weather here.
At the campsite, a welcome bonfire greeted us.
We sat around the fire, sang songs, and gorged on simple, yet delicious, freshly-cooked food. The winds were howling their own plaintive ditty. Another mentor asked ‘Anyone into astrophotography?’
I am a sucker that falls into such traps. ‘Yes’, I said.
Shooting Star Trails by the Lake
In a few moments, the camera gear was out and set up. We ordered another round of tea. And I was shooting the star-trails. I reckoned I didn’t need to shoot a time lapse. The shutter could remain open for a longer time without the sensor getting heated. I decided based on the rapidly-dipping temperature. And the ever-increasing intensity of the wind.
I was right. I kept the shutter open for 32 minutes. With no damage to my camera sensor. And I got my star-trails shot at one of the least light-polluted spots in India.
But, there was a trade-off. I was out in the howling winds alone. My group had deserted me soon after I started shooting. The weather has turned harsh. Three lower and four upper layers of clothing did not help. Nor did the bonfire. I was chilled to the bone. And it was July. Mid-summer at Pangong Tso!
But then, what the heck! I got my shot.
So Long Till We Meet Again
In the morning, we saw the less-discussed facet of the lake. As a result of its proximity to LOAC, there was a lot of armed forces movement. We spotted a chopper bringing in supplies. We also spotted convoys of army vehicles. And we saw an army speedboat slicing through the deep blue waters of Pangong. All, man-made necessities. Not mandated by nature.
Seeing the army movement, my mind was a whirl of contradictory feelings. Of pride and remorse. I was present to the mankind-created dichotomy. And the arbitrary borders that divide our planet. At the same time, borders or not, I was also clear Pangong Tso is our planet’s landmark!
Absolutely mesmerizing. Look at all those seagulls, too.