Sun Temple Konark Odisha India

Our Planet’s Landmarks Series #24

Sun Temple Konark Odisha India

We had travelled about 65 km from Bhubaneswar. Our ‘Times Odisha Culture and Heritage Trail’ bus stopped near a huge gate. The driveway inside was well-paved. The signage along the gate announced we were at Arka Khetra (or Arka Kshetra – Sun Realm). A state-of-the-art Interpretation Centre run by IndianOil Foundation.

Our group spilled out of the bus. It drifted along the driveway in Brownian motion. At the end of the driveway, we reached a spanking new concrete building. Our group waited outside the building when an ancient structure caught my eye.

Sun Temple Konark

‘What is that?’ I asked.
‘Oh that is Konark Sun Temple,’ our guide informed me.
‘What?’ Is it? Is it THE Konark Sun Temple?’
‘Yes.’

I sought out our group leader Manoj. And spoke to him.

‘May I skip the Interpretation Centre?’
‘Why?’ asked Manoj.
‘It is harsh sunlight. And it works well for shooting heritage structures. I would like to shoot the Sun Temple.’
‘Be back here in 90 minutes.’

Before the words were out, I was off. Manoj could feel the urgency in my stride.

First Look

At the turnstile, I checked. There was no entrance ticket that day. Thanks to some special occasion. I entered and an ocean of humanity greeted me. The precinct was teeming with locals and tourists.

The first structure that greeted me had hidden all that lay beyond. Two gigantic lions with exquisite carving flanked a wide stone stairway. As I climbed, I found what must have been a large hallway with massive pillars. This must be the performance area, I thought to myself. For a temple built in 1250 CE, the roof of the hallway had yielded to the ravages of time. But, each pillar revealed outstanding craftsmanship!

I looked beyond and felt crestfallen. Ugly scaffolding caged the actual temple that housed the sanctum sanctorum! Also, I realised people are not allowed on the temple platform anymore. Upon checking, I learnt the temple could have crumbled anytime. So, they had poured concrete inside its sanctum sanctorum to protect its façade.

Circumambulating the temple

I had little choice. I decided I will go around the temple. As I walked, some fascinating stuff began to unravel.

The craftsmen had conceived the entire temple as a celestial chariot of the Sun God. It still adhered to the Kalingan architectural style. Adorned with 12 giant chariot wheels each on both sides. And remains of impressive horse and elephant statues sprinkled around as chariot haulers.

I have been to a few well-crafted ancient temples in India. Seeing its elaborate stone carvings, I rate it as one of the best examples of craftsmanship. It was remarkable UNESCO included it in its World Heritage Sites list in 1984.

Sun Temple and Stories

Of the many stories, the most fascinating is that of British East India Company saving it. Those days, sea was close to the location of the Sun Temple. Marine Board urged the Company to save it as it served as a navigational landmark. And locals were pillaging the site, removing stones from there.

The investigation team discovered the ruins of a beautiful temple. Hidden deep inside the forest. And the formal restoration efforts began in 1901. During this restoration and excavation effort, the team discovered the chariot wheels in 1909.

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These days, Odisha Tourism mounts a Sound & Light show here every evening. The projection on the temple and ancillary structures is vibrant. I wish I could have heard the commentary through open-air PA system. And not had to wear headphones.

History and its Imprint

We know the bias and affiliation of the historian colours the history. That bias is missing when you look at heritage structures. These structures are faithful in reflecting the glory or ignominy of an era. Medieval Period Kalinga was powerful and glorious in its times. Sun Temple ruins are successful in reflecting that reality. And it sure qualifies as one of our planet’s landmarks!

For more planet’s landmarks, click HERE

For Sun Temple Konark’s UNESCO listing, click HERE

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