Our Planet’s Landmarks Series #48
Sweden’s best-preserved Church Town, Gammelstad
A different version of my story, A Tucked-Away Town – Gammelstad, had appeared in October 2016 issue of JetWings International – the in-flight magazine for international sectors of Jet Airways.
The imposing Nederluleå Church fills the horizon as one approaches Gammelstad. Eyes glued, we watch it awestruck! Our guide, a summer volunteer, pointed at the church and said, “Swedes built it to stake a claim on the territory, and not to propagate religion.”
We drove from Luleå, a coastal city of northern Sweden, to Gammelstad to see its deep-red cottages, over 400 in number. The Church Town became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996.
In 1323, Sweden and the Novgorod Republic – a mediaeval Slavic state extending from the Baltic Sea to regions of modern Russia – signed a treaty. In those days, the two countries did not have defined boundaries. Resulting in attempts at colonisation. Sweden made the first move to assert its lien on the territory in 1492. The inaugural year of the stone church.
Visitor’s Centre, across the road from the church, is a good place to start a tour of the town. The centre explains the town’s history through an exhibition, a few slideshows, and a few brochures. Our guide took us through the architectural model, complementing it with stories from the mediaeval times. His narration was a period drama!
The Church Town tradition
Nederluleå Church was the pivot of community life for villages within a radius of 15 kilometres. Though owned by individuals, the cottages were not for permanent residence. The pilgrims lived in these wooden houses during religious festivals. As, owing to the distance, travelling back and forth from their village was difficult.
With no water supply, no heating facility, and no provision for cooking, these tiny houses advocate traditional simple living. This spartan lifestyle continues to define the Church Town, even now.
Things changed in 1621 when Gammelstad got its city rights. Luleå was here, and it transformed from being a temporary Church Town to a town of residents. That worked well for a few years but, in 1649, Luleå moved to its current location, 10 km away from Gammelstad, to meet the growing demands of expanding maritime trade. This development led to Gammelstad re-assuming its Church Town role. A beached ship we discovered during our walk through the town tells the tale of the times when it was a harbour.
Around Gammelstad
The construction at the Nederluleå Church started in the 15th century and continued into the early 16th century. The church has a huge organ, inaugurated in 1971.
During our visit, we made bread using a flat stone oven and churned butter. The pilgrims, during their stay, made their own bread here. Making butter entailed churning buttermilk in a tall wooden barrel. A rhythmic process emitting sound akin to a traditional percussion instrument.
At an eatery, they serve you bread you made with evening tea. A tradition practised in Gammelstad for the last 400 years. An interesting convention was while all pilgrims could bake, only the affluent could make butter as it was a currency in those days.
Arctic Delicacies
We had another culinary surprise in store for us. In the town’s heart, we savoured a seven-course exotic meal at Kaptensgården. This fine-dining restaurant serves preparations made from local meats and ingredients. The menu ranged from ptarmigan to quail, white fish to salmon, reindeer to chicken, and much more.
After lunch, we visited the Hägnan open-air museum housed in a town cottage. A walk through Hägnan, along with its large vintage key, takes you closer to the lifestyle of the town. Amidst the small red cottages, stands a sizeable farmhouse, Gammelstad’s mayor’s house.
Gammelstad, with its humble cottages, is a remarkable example of the traditional Church Town of northern Scandinavia. A true landmark, and an unmissable travel experience that takes you back in time!
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