Our Planet’s Landmarks Series #31

Varanasi – The Grand Dame of India

Kashi. Benares. Banaras. Varanasi. Known by many names, Varanasi has been a caring mother. She has nurtured mankind in her bosom for 5000 years. It is one of the oldest continually-inhabited cities in the world.

Cremation at Manikarnika Ghat - Hindus consider it a portkey to heaven. - Travelure ©
Cremation at Manikarnika Ghat – Hindus consider it a portkey to heaven.

For Hindus, Varanasi is a teleport to heaven. The belief is when you travel from here, you carry no baggage of Karma. You also achieve Moksha or freedom from the cycle of life and death. Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghats are the portkeys. From here, the cremated rise to the heavens to join their ancestors.

Kashi Vishwanath Temple, the site of one of the twelve jyotirlingas, has a controversial mosque next to it. - Travelure ©
Kashi Vishwanath Temple, the site of one of the twelve jyotirlingas, has a controversial mosque next to it.

Kashi Purana is an ancient Hindu scripture. According to that, a person must visit nine places to complete his pilgrimage to Varanasi. Manikarnika Ghat is one of them. Another such place is the Kashi Vishwanath Temple. The seat of one of the Twelve ‘Jyotirlingas’ (Radiant Symbols of Shiva). The other 7 are:

  • Bindu Madhav Temple
  • Dundi Ganpati Temple
  • Dandapaani Temple
  • Bhairav Temple
  • Durga Temple
  • River Ganga (Ganga Goddess) and
  • Annapoorna Bhawaani Temple
A boatman rows us during our early morning boat ride over River Ganga in Varanasi. - Travelure ©
A boatman rows us during our early morning boat ride over River Ganga in Varanasi

Besides these mandatories, some of the other temples of importance in Varanasi are:

  • Kashi Vishalaakshi Temple
  • Kaudi Mata Temple (13,000 years old)
  • Varahi Temple
  • Sankat Mochan Temple
Sarnath excavation site is just 10km from Banaras. Here's Buddha first taught 'Dharma'. - Travelure ©
Sarnath excavation site is just 10km from Varanasi. Here’s Buddha first taught ‘Dharma’.

Besides Hinduism, the city is also an important pilgrimage centre for Buddhists. 10km north-east of Varanasi is Sarnath. The place where Buddha first taught ‘Dharma’ (contextual meaning: ‘moral responsibilities’). While it may seem like a religion overload, it isn’t. It happens to be a tremendous heritage destination!

Fountainhead of Knowledge

Legend has it Lord Shiva founded Varanasi. One of the ancient names of Varanasi, Avimukta, means ‘never forsaken by Shiva’.

Here, Mahakavi Tulsidas spent time writing his literary works. - Travelure ©
Here, Mahakavi Tulsidas spent time writing his literary works

For many millennia, Varanasi has been a seat of knowledge. The highest brahmins of South India, Maharashtra, and West Bengal migrated from Varanasi. Today, Varanasi houses Banaras Hindu University, one of the premier universities of India.

The roundabout near Kabir Math has statues depicting his teachings - Travelure ©
The roundabout near Kabir Math has statues depicting his teachings

Father of Hindi literature and Hindi Theatre, Bhartendu Harishchandra, hailed from Varanasi. So did eminent litterateurs Mahakavi (great poet) Tulsidas and Sant (saint) Kabir.

Knowledge here was not restricted to the written word. Varanasi is also the well-spring of famed Benares Gharana of both music and dance. Ram Sahay founded the Benares Tabla Gharana. Banaras Gharana boasts classical vocalists Girija Devi (late), and Rajan and Sajan Mishra. In dance, Banaras Gharana is one of the four Gharanas known for Kathak.

Seventh generation Sarangi player from Banaras Gharana – Santosh Mishra - Travelure ©
Seventh generation Sarangi player from Benares Gharana – Santosh Mishra

Varanasi and Ganga

Famed Ganga Aarti on Dashashwamedha Ghat in Varanasi (Kashi) - Travelure ©
Famed Ganga Aarti on Dashashwamedha Ghat in Varanasi

It is simple. Think Varanasi, think Ganga (river). In fact, the name Varanasi is a coinage of juxtaposition of Varun and Assi Ghats (Varun + Assi = Varanasi). And these Ghats are on the bank of River Ganga. The rituals and practices on these Ghats define Varanasi. The famed ‘Ganga Aarti’, the akharas, and the morning yoga lend Varanasi its character. As do the narrow maze-like bylanes leading to the Ghats.

Yummy mallaiyyo - a street food favourite from Banaras - Travelure ©
Yummy mallaiyyo – a street food favourite from Varanasi

Any traveller to Varanasi will do well to experience the early morning boat ride on Ganga. And a fitting round off to that calming cruise would be enjoying the street food for breakfast. Be it poori-sabzi, or kachori, accompanied with lassi and mallaiyyo. While here, one must enjoy Banarasi paan too. It is the largest exported food item from Varanasi.

Sunrise boat ride on River Ganga in Varanasi in a must-do experience - Travelure ©
Sunrise boat ride on River Ganga in Varanasi in a must-do experience

Yet another export from Varanasi is the silk sarees. The ladies must flaunt their finest Banarasi silks! Or else, no traditional Hindu North Indian wedding is complete. The irony is, most of the weavers that embellish these wedding trousseaus are Muslims. The city has encouraged and nurtured many an award-winning master silk weavers.

Maqbool Hasan, Banaras – President’s Award Recipient in silk weaving - Travelure ©
Maqbool Hasan – President’s Award Recipient in silk weaving

This grand dame of India reflects all that India is. Rituals and Religion. Arts and Crafts. Music and Dance. Communities and Castes. Savouries and Sweets. Ghats and Streets. In a way, it is a mini India. And with so much happening in Varanasi, could you deny it the status of being our planet’s landmark?

For more planet’s landmarks, click HERE

For Wikipedia write-up on Varanasi, click HERE

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